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How much will your mortgage actually cost each month and over time?
Enter your loan details to see your monthly payment, total interest paid, and how different rates or terms change your bottom line. Compare two scenarios side by side to find the structure that fits your budget.
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How It Works
The formula, explained simply
Every mortgage payment you make is split two ways: a portion retires the debt you borrowed, and a portion pays the bank for lending it to you. Early in the loan, that split heavily favors the bank. On a 30-year $385,000 mortgage at 6.75%, your first payment of $2,496 sends roughly $2,165 to interest and only $331 to principal. By the final year, that ratio flips completely.
The formula behind this is the standard amortization equation, which treats the loan as a series of equal payments where each one first covers the interest accrued since the last payment, then applies the remainder to principal. Because the balance shrinks each month, the interest portion also shrinks — slowly at first, then faster. This is why refinancing early in a loan has the biggest impact: you reset that clock and start the interest-heavy years over.
The total interest figure this tool shows is the simplest stress test you can run. On a 30-year loan, total interest often exceeds the original loan amount. That is not a mistake — it is the arithmetic of compounding applied over time. Seeing that number before you commit is different from reading it in a disclosure document after you have already decided.
When To Use This
Right tool, right situation
Use this tool when you have a specific loan offer or pre-approval letter in hand and want to pressure-test the numbers before committing. It is most useful when comparing two lender offers side by side using the comparison rate field, or when deciding whether paying points to buy down the rate is worth the upfront cost given how long you plan to stay in the home.
It is also appropriate for refinance decisions where you want to see the break-even point between closing costs and monthly savings, or when stress-testing whether a larger purchase price still fits within the 28% housing cost guideline for your income level.
This tool is not the right instrument when your loan has a variable rate, interest-only period, graduated payments, or balloon structure — those products require scenario modeling that accounts for rate adjustments and non-standard amortization. Similarly, if you are comparing total wealth outcomes between buying and renting, you need a tool that incorporates equity accumulation, investment returns on the down payment, and tax deductibility — this calculator covers only the loan mechanics.
Common Mistakes
Why results sometimes look wrong
Mistake 1 — Confusing the mortgage payment with the full housing cost. The monthly payment this tool calculates covers only principal and interest. Property taxes, homeowners insurance, and PMI (if applicable) can add $400 to $1,200 per month depending on location and loan-to-value ratio. Comparing this number directly to your rent without adding those costs leads to underestimating the true monthly obligation by a meaningful margin.
Mistake 2 — Anchoring to the payment instead of the rate. A lender who extends your term from 30 to 40 years can offer a lower monthly payment while dramatically increasing total interest paid. The monthly number looks better; the 40-year number looks worse on every other metric. Always check total interest and total cost alongside the payment before concluding a longer term is the right call.
Mistake 3 — Ignoring the housing cost ratio for refinances. First-time buyers often run the affordability check — but repeat buyers refinancing into a larger loan after a cash-out sometimes skip it. If your refinanced loan pushes your housing cost ratio above 28%, a future lender evaluating your debt for a car loan, business credit line, or second property will see that ratio and factor it into your approval odds.
The Math
Worked examples and deeper derivation
The core formula is: M = P * [r(1+r)^n] / [(1+r)^n - 1], where M is your monthly payment, P is the principal, r is the monthly interest rate (annual rate divided by 12), and n is the total number of payments. This formula assumes all payments are equal and that interest compounds monthly.
The monthly interest rate is the key lever. A 6.75% annual rate becomes 0.5625% per month. That fraction, applied to a $385,000 balance, is $2,165 in interest in month one. As the balance falls, so does the interest charge — which is why your 300th payment on a 30-year loan has almost no interest component at all.
The comparison rate field runs the same formula with a different r value and subtracts the two monthly payments. Because the difference compounds over hundreds of payments, even a 0.25% rate gap produces a surprisingly large total-interest spread. The break-even math for a rate buydown is straightforward: divide the upfront cost (points paid) by the monthly savings to get the month at which the buydown pays for itself.
Expert Unlock
The thing most explanations skip
The amortization formula assumes monthly compounding with no payment timing variation. In practice, bi-weekly payment programs — where you make 26 half-payments per year instead of 12 full ones — effectively make one extra full payment annually, which can shave 4 to 5 years off a 30-year mortgage and eliminate tens of thousands in interest without changing the stated rate. This tool does not model bi-weekly schedules; a borrower evaluating that option needs a full amortization table with payment-date inputs.
The 28% housing cost ratio guideline embedded here is a front-end ratio. Lenders also evaluate the back-end ratio — total debt service including car payments, student loans, and credit cards — against a 36% to 43% ceiling. Passing the front-end check does not guarantee loan approval if back-end debt is high. The two ratios together, not either one alone, determine qualifying headroom.
Why does a small rate change make such a big difference in total interest?
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