Find Power

How many watts is your circuit actually using?

Enter any two of voltage, current, or resistance to find power in watts. Useful for checking outlet loads, sizing fuses, or understanding appliance consumption.

Updated July 2026 · How this works

Example calculation — edit any field to use your own numbers

Worth knowing
How It Works
The formula, explained simply

Imagine a garden hose: voltage is the water pressure, current is how fast water flows, and power is how much work the water can do per second. Crimp the hose (add resistance) and you reduce flow — less power delivered even at the same pressure. Open the hose wide (low resistance) and flow increases, delivering more power. Electrical circuits work the same way, and the relationship is just as predictable.

Power is the rate at which electrical energy is converted into heat, light, motion, or any other form. A 1,000 W microwave running for one hour has consumed 1.02 kWh of electricity — that is the number on your utility bill. The physical formula P = V x I connects all three quantities: volts, amps, and watts. Know any two, derive the third.

Ohm's Law (V = I x R) extends this to resistance. Combined with the power formula, you get three equivalent expressions: P = VI, P = I²R, and P = V² / R. This calculator uses whichever pair of inputs you provide and solves for the rest. The practical payoff: you can cross-check a device's nameplate rating against your actual supply voltage, or work out the resistance of a heating element from its published wattage.

When To Use This
Right tool, right situation

Use this calculator when you are adding a new appliance and want to confirm the circuit can handle the load, when you are sizing a replacement fuse or circuit breaker, or when you want to estimate the operating cost of a device before buying it. It is also useful when reading a manufacturer spec sheet that lists only two of the three quantities (V, A, or W) and you need the third.

It is equally useful in reverse: if you know a resistor's resistance and the voltage across it, this tool tells you how much power it dissipates — important for choosing a resistor with a high enough wattage rating in electronics projects. Underrated resistors overheat and fail.

Do not use this calculator for AC circuits with significant reactive loads — induction motors, large transformers, fluorescent lighting with magnetic ballasts — without also applying a power factor correction. In those cases the product of nameplate voltage and nameplate current gives apparent power (VA), not real power (W). The difference can be 10 to 30 percent, enough to affect breaker sizing. For any installation involving new wiring, panels, or high-power equipment, a licensed electrician should verify the calculation.

Common Mistakes
Why results sometimes look wrong

Confusing VA with watts. Appliance nameplates sometimes show VA (volt-amps) rather than watts. For resistive loads these are equal. For motors and transformers they are not — a device rated 500 VA might only consume 400 W of real power if its power factor is 0.8. Using VA as watts overstates the load, which is conservative but can mislead when planning circuit capacity.

Ignoring startup current. The calculator computes steady-state power from steady-state voltage and current. Electric motors, refrigerators, and air conditioners draw a large inrush current at startup — sometimes three to seven times the running value. A motor showing a comfortable running current might pull several times that for the first half-second. Fuse and breaker sizing must account for this, not just the calculated running power.

Assuming voltage is exactly nominal. Entering 120 V for a US outlet is accurate as a nominal value, but actual outlet voltage varies between roughly 114 V and 126 V depending on load and utility conditions. If you are calculating whether a device will exceed a breaker rating, measure the actual voltage with a multimeter rather than relying on the nominal figure.

The Math
Worked examples and deeper derivation

The core formula is P = V × I, where P is power in watts, V is voltage in volts, and I is current in amps. For the example of 120 V at 8.5 A, the result is 1,020 W.

When only voltage and resistance are known, Ohm's Law substitutes current: I = V / R. Plugging into the power formula gives P = V² / R. When only current and resistance are known, voltage substitutes as V = I x R, giving P = I² × R. All three forms are mathematically equivalent — choose based on which quantities you have.

Energy over time follows from power directly: Energy (Wh) = P × time (hours). Dividing by 1.02 kWh per hour is the energy the example load consumes in one hour of continuous operation. Multiply by your utility rate per kWh to get operating cost.

Checking if a space heater will trip a household breaker
Voltage: 120 V, Current: 12.5 A
At 120 V and 12.5 A, the heater draws 1,500 W. The resistance of the heating element works out to 120 V divided by 12.5 A shown in the sub-outputs. Running this on a standard 15-amp circuit leaves only a small safety margin — one additional device on the same circuit could trip the breaker. The load consumes 1.5 kWh for every hour of operation.
Sizing a fuse for an LED workshop light with known resistance
Voltage: 120 V, Resistance: 14 ohms
With a supply of 120 V across a 14-ohm load, the tool derives the current as 8.5 A and computes power as 1,020 W. This is well within a standard 15-amp fuse rating, with plenty of headroom for other devices on the same circuit. The fixture uses 1.02 kWh per hour of runtime.
An electrician verifying a 240 V dryer circuit load
Voltage: 240 V, Current: 15 A
A dryer running at 240 V drawing 15 A produces a load of 3,600 W. The derived resistance shown in the sub-output reflects the combined impedance of the heating element and motor at that operating point. The circuit must be rated above 15 A continuous — the 20-amp 240 V circuit commonly installed for dryers provides the required headroom. Hourly energy consumption is 3.6 kWh.
Expert Unlock
The thing most explanations skip

The formula P = VI assumes voltage and current are in phase — true for DC and pure resistive AC. In reactive circuits, voltage and current are phase-shifted; the true real power is P = VI cos(θ), where θ is the phase angle and cos(θ) is the power factor. At a power factor of 0.85 (typical for a lightly loaded motor), this calculator overstates real power by about 18 percent. The overstatement is safe for thermal design but causes errors in energy cost projections. For three-phase systems, the formula extends to P = √3 × Vline × Iline × PF — a single-phase tool gives one-third the correct answer if applied naively to a three-phase load.

Why does my circuit breaker trip even when the wattage looks fine?

What is the difference between watts, volts, and amps?
Voltage (volts) is the electrical pressure pushing current through a circuit. Current (amps) is the rate of flow. Power (watts) is the product of the two — the actual work being done per second. A high-voltage, low-current circuit and a low-voltage, high-current circuit can deliver the same wattage, which is why both volts and amps matter when sizing wiring and breakers.
Why does my circuit breaker trip even when the wattage calculation looks safe?
Breakers protect against sustained current, not just instantaneous wattage. A motor starting up can draw three to six times its running current for a fraction of a second — enough to trip a breaker even if the steady-state load is well within spec. Also, a breaker rated at 15 amps is designed to trip before that limit on a continuous load, typically derated to 80 percent for circuits running longer than three hours.
Can I use this calculator for AC circuits like home outlets?
Yes, with one caveat. For purely resistive loads like incandescent bulbs and heating elements, P = V x I gives the exact real power. For inductive or capacitive loads — motors, fluorescent ballasts, some electronics — you need to factor in the power factor, which is the cosine of the phase angle between voltage and current. Without the power factor, this calculator gives apparent power in volt-amps (VA) rather than true power in watts. For most household appliances labeled with a wattage rating, the nameplate figure already accounts for power factor.

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